I signed up for Canonical's UbuntuOne private beta last week and just got my invite today. The service lets you upload files to Canonical's servers where you can seamlessly sync directories and files across any number of computers. This is generally known as 'cloud storage.'
When you sign up, you are directed to add their UbuntuOne repository and download/install a small gtk applet (only compatible with Jaunty and higher) that will integrate the service with your Ubuntu installation. On my Karmic alpha system, the applet had already been installed, which is what led me to seek out the service in the first place.
There are two main ways to access your cloud data: via the aforementioned system integration or through a fancy AJAXy Web interface: The Web interface gives you a lot of management options, including file and folder management: as well as options to add more users to share your files: The GNOME integration is also super-swanky, with a notification bar applet that lets you connect/disconnect to the cloud: and a folder that appears in Nautilus with a handy button that handles connecting: I haven't run into any bugs/issues yet, but I'll update this post as things arise.
Update 7/01/11: If you're here looking for info on modding AEPC, hit up the AE modding wiki. All of the vanilla SF4 mods should work on AE with just a little bit of work (see this tutorial for instructions).
Update 7/26/09: Go check out the modding wiki I helped set up with SRK forum user SeedyROM. We're going to try and collect as much information as we can related to SF4 modding and put it all in one convenient spot. SeedyROM has already collected tons of skins and we have a lot of tutorials and utilities compiled already. http://sf4mods.pbworks.com
Just to get it out of the way: this will unlock everything EXCEPT alternate costumes. Also, these unlocks may corrupt online account saves, so you should probably only use them on offline accounts.
Update 7/11/09: Cheat Engine method now allows enabling alt costumes, but it doesn't really *unlock* them, it just swaps some files locations (i.e., only you can see them online; your opponent sees the normal costume).
Update 7/13/09:Alt costume trainer! Just drop it into your SF4 directory and point it at your SF4 Launcher. Use the F-keys to toggle costumes.
All credit goes out to Shoryuken forums user AceKombat, who made this possible.
The cheat is possible in a couple of ways. The easiest method right now is to use Kennykilla's trainer, which is based on AceKombat's hex codes.
To use the trainer, launch SF4 just like you normally would (go to the options and run the game in windowed mode if it is not already) and sign in to your offline account. Then, open the trainer and click the boxes to choose what to unlock. Once everything is unlocked, go into one of the options, such as the sound or system options, and change something to force a save. This will make your unlocks permanent.
To make sure, back out of the menus and quit the program, relaunch it and check to see if everything is there. You should be all set. However, if nothing is unlocked or you have a corrupted save file, you'll want to try the longer method:
First, download the Cheat Engine program (these codes are confirmed to work with 5.5 but should also work with older versions). Note: this program shows up as a trojan on some antivirus programs, but I assure you that it's fine. Next, download the updated list of AceKombat's hex codes (thanks to Game Vixen forum user fly19840303man for finding the alt costume codes and to Cheat Engine forum user 'dental' for combining them into a single file).
Once you have Cheat Engine installed, run SF4 in windowed mode. While it's running, launch Cheat Engine, click on the top-left computer icon and select the StreetFighterIV.exe process from the list. Next, click on the folder icon to browse to the combined list (it will be called "SFIV Unlock.CT"). A bunch of entries should appear in the list area toward the bottom of the Cheat Engine window.
Click any of the entries in that area and select the ones you want to enable. In the area labeled "Change these values," replace the '0' with '1'. Go through the list to make sure everything was applied with no conflicts, which can happen when you've already unlocked some things the legitimate way. Now, just go into one of the in-game options and force a save by changing something and you should be all set.
For the alt costumes, you can't change the values until you are at a character selection screen. Once there, switch to Cheat Engine and change the values and click the box to 'freeze' the value at 1. From this point on, if you use the initial color, the standard costume will appear, but if you cycle to a different color, it will switch to the alt. This system will stay in effect until you close Cheat Engine (i.e., it will not save even if you force an in-game save like with the other unlockables).
If you have any problems with using the Cheat Engine program, AceKombat made a sweet little tutorial video that will walk you through unlocking Seth.
The procedure is basically the same for unlocking everything, except you're loading the combined file instead of typing in the codes individually.
The modding community is also making some serious headway, though they don't have any dead-simple ways to apply the changes yet. Until that time, I'll just leave you with some teasers: Goth Chun Li, Cammy not-quite-nude (mildly NSFW), and swapping movesets among characters, e.g. Chun Li with Zangief's moveset or with Sagat's moveset:
Update 7/12/09: Here's my video of the Chun Li Goth mod applied:
Various color mods: Note: if a color doesn't have a convenient number for you (e.g., it's 01_04 and you would rather it be 01_02), open the emz file with a hex editor, scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see the number appear 2 times. Change that to your desired number, save and rename the file to your desired number and you're all set.
For anyone who wants to do character mods themselves, here's a link to an automated extractor from Shoryuken forums user Lee Rekka (extract to C:\Program Files\CAPCOM\STREETFIGHTERIV). The resulting files can be viewed using Dragon Unpacker. To edit image files, you'll need a dds plugin for Photoshop (32-bit only) or GIMP (see this post from Game Vixens for details and links).
Update 7/13/09:Music mods! Think the music is shitty? Replace it with remixes of classic SF tunes. All credit for these goes to Shoryuken forums user mmaster_po so give him some rep.
copy files to: \Street Fighter 4\Battle\System and replace the original file (backup original files first)
Get Rid of Menu Music (no moar Indestructible): Go to the game/sound folder and rename BGM_MAIN_OM.csb and create a blank text file with the same name in its place (another popular option is to copy BGM_END.csb in its place instead).
Get Rid of the Announcer (credit goes to Shoryuken forums user PimpUigi):
1. Disables in game announcer annoyances In the folder *:\Program Files\Capcom\STREETFIGHTERIV\Battle\Narration Rename BTL_NAR_E.csb to something else, and make a blank text file named BTL_NAR_E.csb
2. Disables pre game/vs. screen/character selection screen announcer annoyances In the folder *:\Program Files\Capcom\STREETFIGHTERIV\Game\Sound Rename SELVS_SE.csb to something else, and make a blank text file named SELVS_SE.csb
He still says... All the things at the beginning of the round...like "Let's Pick Up the Pace!" "KO" "Perfect" "Time over!" "Draw Game" and "Double KO"
He no longer says "so and so wins" or anything else.
Update 7/17/09:Automated moveset switcher! (command line only, but still completely awesome; credit goes to Shoryuken forums user Buey):
Simple syntax is: "sf4moveswap.exe set ZGF VEG" to give Vega (Dictator)'s moves to Zangief. You can see the character codes in the program, so you don't have to look them up. Other commands can be seen by running the program without any command line parameters.
Here are 3 color mods I made: Scottish Honda, Collosus Zangief, Krang Seth, Seth Venom v3 (added mouth/tongue color and insignia on back), Mr. Fantastic (aka Reed Richards), The Invisible Woman (from Fantastic 4), Rufus as Dr. Robotnik, and some re-skins for the training stage: Escher-themed, holodeck (looks an awful lot like when you set backgrounds to 'low'), and Mario-themed. I did a model edit of Guile to give him a more normalish haircut, which really improves the look of some of his other mods are from a Solid Snake mod with my costume applied). Download: http://www.mediafire.com/?4d0czzodtjm Download: http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?zogkhz3wvky http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?nojqd2bgj4y download: http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?kdybjnnoyxh
I just modified Miss Signoritas' Catwoman mod for Chun Li to have no hair buns and no dress flaps using col-based transparency to make it look more accurate (no offense to Signoritas; her version is very cool and keeps the Chun Li flavor). I also did a minor cos model edit to close the holes in her head that appear when the buns are transparent, but this edit is so minor that you can use this new file with the original costume with no problem (see screenshot):
Something new about Ubuntu 9.10 Karmic Koala that hasn't really been advertised as far as I've seen is that desktop compositing via Compiz Fusion is possible from inside of a virtual machine. I believe this is due to recent changes in the way the kernel handles video memory, though I'm not sure. I don't think it is particularly caused by the version of VirtualBox that I'm using because my Intrepid VM is still confined to a flat, ho-hum desktop. Regardless, it's big news for me because I am forced to work in Windows for the most part at my job, but I always have Ubuntu running in a VM for most of my Web browsing (no viruses).
All of the plugins I have tried have worked, though ones that require fading in and out can be slow. Static transparency seems to work fine, though, as is demonstrated by the terminal window in my video. Also, wobbly windows and the desktop cube work swimmingly.
If you have any input on why Compiz suddenly works within the VM, please let me know.
That's pretty much it. Just plug it up and give it a shot. If you find that any of your buttons are acting funny, e.g. nothing happens when you press the button until you let go, try swapping the locations of the wires around on the button (i.e., move the wire from the bent post to one of the straight ones and vice versa).
Once again, here's what the final product looks like:
I've presented my own experience here, but there are tons of others' experiences elsewhere online. The Shoryuken.com forums have some really great info on pad hacking and DIY stick-making. You can also find some great things at the arcadecontrols.com forums (HarumaN is an expert and sells pre-hacked pads at reasonable prices) and xbox-scene.com forums (RDC has some great, thorough information about pad hacking, along with some good tutorials on how to salvage pads after a screw-up).
Gamingnow.net sells damn-near anything a stick-builder could want, all at very reasonable prices.
MAMErs can purchase I-PAC interfaces from Ultimarc. Another option that seems to be preferred on the Shoryuken forums is the Cthulhu board, which can be purchased at gamingnow.net.
UPDATE: even better than the Cthulhu is Toodles' new Chimp board, which provides PC/PS3 support and is designed to accept a hacked 360 common ground pad to provide 360 support with automatic switching among protocols. Plus, it's cheaper than bare Cthulhus used to be! You can get it and other stick materials at Lizard Lick.
UPDATE 3/25/11: Even better than the Chimp board, now you can get the Akishop PS360 triple-mod board, which is a no-solder board that supports PS3, Xbox 360 and PC all at once. It costs slightly more (~$45), but it completely removes padhacking from the equation for the first time ever. This and other arcade stick parts intended for fighting game enthusiasts are available at focusattack.com.
If you want to build a standard, semi-low-profile stick similar to what you would buy in a store, I recommend checking out some of the articles on slagcoin.com. The site has TONS of great information about all aspects of stick-making, and their button layout section is unparalleled.
You can learn more about sticks--including the differences between various brands--here. The section about restrictor plates should be considered required reading for any aspiring stick-jockey.
After the Hell that is pad hacking, this part is a breeze and is pretty straigtforward. You just put the buttons into the holes you cut in your panel, then screw down the plastic nut to hold them in place. At this point, I wouldn't bother screwing them down too hard because you might need to rearrange/rotate them later.
Next, attach your microswitches to the buttons. This picture shows a standard cherry microswitch that came with my arcade buttons. When you go to attach the wires from your hacked pad to your microswitches, the best method is to use .187 sized quick releases (or .110 for japanese-style buttons) rather than soldering the wires directly to the posts, which will make repairing/replacing buttons much easier in the future. For the joystick, you'll need to drill mounting holes around your large-diameter joystick hole. The Happ stick I chose is a top-mounted stick, but I wanted a smooth surface (i.e., no visible screw/bolt heads) so I countersank the holes a bit and then covered the bolts with wood glue and wood putty before staining/sanding. This is a pretty permanent solution for better or for worse (no way to reposition the mounting bolts), but I intend to continue using Happ sticks in the future, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
After the glue and putty dried, I did a light sanding and proceeded to stain the top and sides. Once that's all set, you can attach your joystick base by threading the mounting bolts through the appropriate mounting holes and then screwing the nuts onto the bolts. Once you have the base of the joystick bolted into place, follow the instructions that came with your joystick for dropping the stalk into place. The instructions for my Happ were not very clear, so I'll explain my process: first, put the plastic ring--textured side-up--on the stalk, followed by the plastic spacer, then push the stalk through the base until it pokes out the other side next to the microswitches. Next, take the actuator (that funky square piece) and PRESS IT DOWN until you can snap the little clip into place to hold it (the fact that it can be pressed down was not mentioned in my instructions and I erroneously thought the spacer was missized).
After that, you just need to attach your pad to the microswitches via the quick releases. The ground attaches to the side post and the signal attaches to one of the two straight posts on the bottom (one side registers when the button is pressed, the other registers until the button is pressed).
Here is how my first attempt ended up (not so hot):
And here's my second attempt (a little better): At this point, I added a few extra touches, including hinges for the top to maintain easy access to the wiring and some cabinet handles on the back which also double as cable wraps:
Also, as you may have noticed in some of the previous pics, I attached some staples from a staple gun to the bottom of the box interior. I then used cable ties to stabilize the pads against the staples and keep them from flopping around whenever I move the box.
If you're not going to use the pad hack method and will instead use an I-PAC or similar control chip, you can skip this part, obviously. For this stage of the construction, I recommend you have an exacto knife, some thinnish wire (~22 AWG; I actually used an IDE hard drive ribbon), a soldering kit (soldering iron and lots of solder, helping hands with a magnifier, a good lamp) and a hot glue gun. First off, you'll need to remove the outer shell of your controller, usually using a small phillips-head screwdriver. Once you're down to the bare PCB (printed circuit board), you'll see that all of the button contacts are covered in this weird black coating that solder won't stick to, so we gotta scrape that shit off to get to the sweet, sweet copper underneath it (you'll want to scrape off more than is shown in this picture; it's just an example). I've heard of people using a dremel with a wire brush attachment to do this, but that sounds like a bad idea to me so I stuck with using an exacto with a square-ish blade (lay it almost flat against the board so you shave off the black stuff instead of scratching it off with the point/edge). However you decide to do it, just make sure you don't damage the copper underneath because that's what we want to solder to.
Once you get a pair of wires soldered to their corresponding pads, I recommend you plug your controller into your PC/console and bridge the wires (i.e., touch the bare ends together to make a circuit) to verify that the correct button registers. If not, you'll have to figure out what went wrong and redo it. If everything works properly, take out your hot glue gun and encase the whole area in glue to make things sturdier and take the stress off of your solder joints.
Here's a picture of my first attempt, after everything was soldered and glued. I used some cable ties (slightly off-frame up above the pad) to clean up the horrible mess of mess of wires I made: This is my second attempt, which used IDE ribbon instead of thicker wires. Looks much neater, eh? After that's all finished, I recommend you attach the wires to a terminal strip or something similar so that you may more easily attach/remove buttons or--god forbid--another pad.
Here are some things regarding pad hacking that were not clearly stated in other sources I read online: I used the official XBox 360 wired pad from Microsoft (unfortunately, the wireless pads are a total hassle and sometimes break inexplicably during the construction process). Unlike the Mad Catz 360 pad, the official pad does not seem to have a "common ground," which makes things a little harder. The pads with a common ground are set up such that the signal pad of each button can be grounded against the ground pad of almost ANY other button on the PCB. This makes for less soldering and fewer wires to connect to your buttons. In the case of the official pad, you'll need to solder wires to both pads of each button. The silver lining is that you don't need to muck around with any "solder plan" or daisychain any grounds.
So-called "trigger hacking" a.k.a. "set[ting] trigger to neutral" is a pain in the ass, serves no purpose that I can see and has the potential to cause serious problems. It involves desoldering the trigger potentiometers and removing the whole trigger mechanism, then soldering a 10k ohm resister to the leads to make the controller think it's always completely extended. Some people make it sound like this is necessary to even use the triggers, so I did it to my pads and ever since then my button readouts have been very strange (hitting a button doesn't map it to, say, joy1 button 1, but rather to joy1 button 1 joy3 button 1; that is, it thinks the controller is actually 2 controllers at once...). Instead of opening this can of worms, it appears that you could just leave the trigger mechanism and potentiometer intact, hot glue everything in place in the open position (to make sure nothing gets wonky while you're playing) and then solder to the points just like you would with a hacked trigger. Sounds much easier to me. The other option is just to ignore the triggers entirely and deal with the slight hassle of remapping the trigger-assigned button(s) every time you plug the stick into a 360.
Finally, it's easier to make these connections IMO if you place a small drop of solder on the copper pads and then attach the wire to that instead of trying to do it all at once, juggling solder, the PCB and the wire. If you should happen to mess something up, don't freak out; you can follow the lead from wherever you screwed up to the little dot (called a "via") where the lead pokes through to the backside of the PCB. Just scratch away some of the green coating there and you should be able to solder to it (RDC of the xbox-scene forums has a great tutorial for this process).
As I said, I won't cover much here, but I will go over some of the tools I used in my construction. A router and table saw will make the job much easier, but you can get by with just a drill, some specialized bits and a circular saw.
For the button holes, I used a 1 1/8" spade bit, purchased at the local hardware store for about $5. You can either lay your button layout sheet directly on the wood and drill through it, or you can just mark the centerpoints and save the layout for later use. The only things to remember with using the spade bit are to make sure you go in straight and be patient to avoid it getting bogged down or stuck.
For the joystick hole, I used a 2 1/4" hole saw attachment. Again, take your time lest you end up with a costly waste of wood due to a misplaced hole.
I recommend attaching your pieces using pegs made of dowel rod and wood glue, since that will be much sturdier (and nicer looking) than just a bunch of nails. If you're a master carpenter, go ahead and do a dovetail joint or anything else that will improve the strength of the box, since you'll be beating the hell out of it on a regular basis.
